Should there be a “Recipe of Remembrance” for 9/11? Sam Sifton, New York Times food editor, thinks so.
The first restaurant meal we had in the chaotic, somber days after the 2001 attacks on the World Trade Center was downtown, in TriBeCa, with an awful, smoky stench in the air and a tiny child sleeping in a stroller beside us. The setting was the Odeon, a bistro that opened in 1980 and for a long time defined the neighborhood’s possibility, back when its streets were empty and dark.
Some people remember 9/11 for the death and destruction. Some for the steak frites.
As that city lay wounded, the Odeon seemed the very best place to take a newborn to dinner.
We had country salad and steak frites that night.
My old pal, Dan Arshack, didn’t really think that tying a recipe to the deaths of thousands was appropriate, and let Sifton know. Continue reading

